Opinion

What I Learned at the Edinburgh Military Tattoo

BY ELLE CAVANAUGH

Over the summer, I hopped on a plane to hop on a bus (or as it’s known over there, a “coach”) for two weeks and traveled across the Northern European countries of  Great Britain, Wales, Ireland, and Scotland. I’ll likely write more of my travels, but this week I have been recounting my experience at the Edinburgh Military Tattoo.

Weirdly enough, this event had nothing to do with the ink and needle tattoos we know. The Tattoo is a Military Festival hosted by the British Armed Forces in front of Edinburgh Castle featuring a combination of drill and band performances by international allies. The Tattoo has been celebrated nearly every night of August since 1949, never canceling for inclement events. 

The performance we saw was the 2nd performance of the 74th annual celebration on a rainy Friday evening. We arrived two hours early to enjoy what is known as the Royal Mile; a mile-long road that leads up to the castle. During the festival dozens of street performers show up to proclaim their love for their country of origin. My ears filled with bagpipes, laughter, and more accents than I could separate. However, I am not much for crowds so my family hopped from shop to shop before entering the makeshift stadium.  To my shock, performers were walking around the common areas freely! Some were even socializing with guests and taking pictures. Of course, I was too shy to ask for one so we just went to our seats.

The rain let up just in time for a countdown to be projected on the side of Edinburgh Castle. With around 30 seconds left, a platoon from the British Royal Navy marched out while another marched up the side of the castle. They took their places right as the clock hit zero. A voice echoed through the stadium to welcome us and more importantly, the guest of honor. They told us a few reminders before the performance began. 

After that, the British national anthem played. My British companions sang quietly to themselves, but the combination of them unified to fill the stadium. Amongst the flags surrounding the stadium, I picked out the American flag and focused my eyes on it. I thought about her meaning, what she stood for. As a JROTC cadet, I understood the symbolism of red, white, and blue as well as the stars and stripes. But at that moment, I wanted to know more. What do the people around me think when they see the star-spangled banner wave? What am I even thinking? All I could feel was pride. For all the great things back home, there were just as many bad yet I felt pride. I felt immense pride to be an American 5,000 miles from home. But I couldn’t figure out why. 

I would find out soon enough. Before that I had to be blown away on a global level. A mass of people passed through fog in kilts and bagpipes as they emerged from the entrance of the castle. Each squad was wearing a different uniform, once the drummers emerged I learned they all represented a different organization. I was amazed that all these people from all over the world had unified under these instruments and these outfits. What was even more incredible was their marching and music.  Can you imagine learning an entirely new way to march in unison with a couple thousand other people AND playing music at the same time? Well that’s what these guys were doing. What had to have been 5,000 people were in step. All of them were marching in accordance with British customs as well. On top of all that, they were playing an instrument! I would also imagine that the Indian and South Korean performers had to overcome a language barrier. This was just the opening!

After everyone had marched off I started squealing with joy for the first performers: The Citadel. For those of you who don’t know, the Citadel is an American Military school known for being intense in all ways, shapes, and forms. However, at the Tattoo, they proved to be creative and cheerful. Their music was upbeat and the choreography was rather jazzy. The cadets were dancing as if they were normal people, even the company commander was getting into it. They even turned to the stands to sing “Country Roads” and clapping along with the spectators. I laughed and thought, “This truly represents us”. America is a young country, just like the cadets performing for it. We like to have fun. Yet, America is also serious and cunning. This was displayed by the Naval Ceremonial Guard that came after. Their drill was coordinated, intense, and flawless. They spun, flipped, and threw real M1903 Springfields with bayonets keeping perfect military bearing the entire time. The drill team reminded the stadium that even when danger is flying over them, they remain calm and brave. 

Teamwork Arts India opened my eyes to a whole lot of culture I never thought I’d see. They performed music and dances from all over India, most of which I had no clue existed. I learned later that I watched the first all-female Bhangera group, which is a  traditional folk dance of the northwestern or ‘Punjab’ area. I loved how much pride and excitement was on their faces as they danced an ancient performance with a modern twist. The way they danced with each other didn’t feel like something they had to slave over practicing, it seemed like they were just out to celebrate with close friends.

Once they left, the United States Sea Service Band emerged. This band only comes together for the Tattoo and consists of members from the Marine Corps, Coast Guard, and the Navy. Much like the previous Americans, they performed young energized music such as “Danger Zone” sung by a very talented sailor. However, they had another sailor who sang “Don’t Forget Your Old Shipmate” which is a traditional Royal Navy song. The song served as a reminder of where we came from and how our countries have mended our bond since then. Of course, after that we went right back to shredding electric guitar solos.     

  Following the Sea Service was a performance by various individuals. Much like the opening ceremony, it featured traditional Highland music and dances performed by people from all over. It did not matter what color they were, what gender they were, or anything else. All that mattered in these moments was their appreciation and talent for Highland jigs. The Tattoo performers soon after performed what they called “The Highland Rave” which was a combination of Korean Pop and Highland sounds. The energy was over the moon. The way everyone joined together to make this unlikely combination function blew my mind. 

After all that, the show had to come to an end. The Royal Marines and Sea Service Band took the floor to perform “Take My Hand”. As the song progressed, more performers took to the grounds. The singers from Teamwork Arts joined in the background vocals, then the Highland singer, and a Royal Marine. The instrumentals became progressively louder and you could feel every note. Bagpipes, harps, drums, all sorts of woodwind instruments were building this song. Once the song concluded, a spotlight came upon a lone Bagpiper standing on the wall of the castle, playing a solo called “The Voice of a Bagpiper”. I then remembered, all this music had come from a group of individual people. Single human beings had joined together to create this magnificent show.

In a world so full of division, the Edinburgh Tattoo taught me that unity is still possible. Art and music are so complex yet so beautiful. Everyone has their own special way of displaying a nation’s personality and an even more special way of joining them together. 

Categories: Opinion

Leave a comment